Whether it is simple chains, a heavy bracelet or even a multitude of chains for that Bappi Lahiri look or just an eclectic piece of jewelry that is macho and usually silver, brass, or has a worn-in sense, Men’s jewelry is here to stay, says Priyanka Sarkar, Founder House of Biori. Indeed, accessories are one of the only sartorial grounds in which a man can fully express himself and still remain suitably appropriate!
What made you explore the Men’s jewelry segment?
It is becoming increasingly more acceptable for the average man to use beauty products specific to his gender, spend on his appearance and wear jewelry. The global annual men’s wear market grew by 4.5% outpacing women’s wear at 3.7%. In jewelry, one can see a strategic shift of focus in men’s wear drifting away from the confinement of cufflinks, tie pins and time pieces.
Be it mainstream watch brands like Rolex with their bracelets to accessory designers like Hannah Martin , Luis Morais, Stephen Webster or design labels like Valentino, Gucci and Mc Queen , men’s wear jewelry is on a move and is here to stay.
At Biori, we are continuously working on creating a medium of individual expression through our jewelry which is unique, hand crafted and fair trade staying true to global trends and craftsmanship. So menswear was a very natural progression securing the same set of values.
Men (generally) aren’t into jewelry as much as women. How do you intend to break that mindset and stereotype with Biori?
Men’s jewellery is not a new idea: historically, men heroes all over the world have worn earrings, necklaces, bracelets, pendants, chains, amulets, rings and more. But just because somebody else has worn something—on television, in ancient history, or in a faraway land—doesn’t necessarily make it easier for us to follow suit. If you are not a trendsetter, you may not welcome the idea of wearing a necklace. But it takes even greater gumption to ignore fashion altogether.
Biori men’s wear is trying to place jewelry in context to the man’s world. It’s like how they approach a purchase of a watch, they should look at jewelry. There is no typical male customer, a love of jewelry being less about someone’s age or particular style and more about appreciation of design. It’s not about following a trend, it’s about a more comfortable, confident and an individualistic approach towards fashion. Confidence is crucial but a bit of a flair is needed to carry a piece of jewelry.
Can you take us through the creative process involved in creating pieces for men?
Our jewelry is the real hero, badass, and true to its metal and materials created by the experts who adorn years of experience and expertise. Each design is unique and true to its mettle and material. Unlike the women, men’s attitude on jewelry is on the move where he is still trying to find his sense of belonging. Make a man stand next to a mirror in a standard jewelry store and let him try a piece on his own and he will give it a pass. Therefore, online and bespoke platforms work better for men which is exactly what Biori is retailing on.
The process of design is similar to how we approach our women’s wear – Contemporary, Heritage and Statement. Only the adaptation is more dress down and subtle. The focus is to make the man comfortable enough by himself to wear whatever he wants considering that little advice of what to wear. The right jewelry for the right occasion which values sentiments, familial pride and a teeny element of vanity remains the keywords in Design and Research for menswear.
Do you think that eventually all jewelry will be unisex?
One thing legendary punkers and rock stars did exceptionally well? Wear accessories with serious attitude. In today’s style paradigm, more and more hip-hop figures are taking their cues from the gender-bending, societal norm-hating rockers of yore, opting for androgynous modes of dress, vintage tees and shredded-to-death denim. Unisex jewelry is increasingly becoming a stay on trend. Also with a strong shift towards ‘less is more’, consumers are looking towards versatile, simple, mix and match pieces to celebrate as a symbol of commitment. There will always be derivatives of the same trend in jewelry for men and women with a common linkage as unisex.
Top Trends in Men’s Jewelry?
Overall, commercial twists on staple items will continue to drive men’s jewelry design, inspired by new utility, re-evaluation of classic pieces and a curated approach to styling.
Renewed appreciation for the concept of craftsmanship and the skill of the maker will set the trend for worn and distressed metals with a utilitarian feel.
Statement hardware remains, reflecting the trend for industrial bricolage. A rise in unisex styles will offer distinctive pieces. Gold and silver will continue to be key metals. Mixed plate finishes and raw textures will update the surfaces.
Stay tuned with Biori to embrace the above.